
The foundation of the project is a steel shelving unit, by Seville Classics courtesy of Costco, which I had been pressed into use as a stop-gap measure: http://ietextiles0manninghamilton.wordpress.com/2010/02/23/polyeurathane-refugee-and-kitchen-project/ . Ours is the 48″ version of this:
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?ec=BC-EC22708-ProdID11245665&pos=0&whse=BC&topnav=&prodid=11110255&lang=en-US
The space between the fridge and the spice cabinet is just shy of 80 inches, the standard length for doors. So I had Von Tobel’s Lumber trim 1″ off the one end of each of three 24″ wide birch face hollow-core flush doors, and rip a fourth one down the middle to provide two lengths of twelve inch wide shelving. Once all the damn Poly was on I carefully measured and marked the location of the holes to correspond with the posts of the steel shelves and drilled. As I mentioned, even without the police action interlude, it’s a bit nerve-wracking — three sets of four holes have to line up almost perfectly and slip over the posts…
And they did!
Each “door” shelf actually rests on a steel shelf, distributing the load over 6 square feet, rather balancing it on four points.

You can see how the load is carried by the steel shelf
I had given some thought about both the appearance and the durability of the join between the “door” shelves and the steel posts and spent some time looking for a grommet type thingummy that would protect the edges of the hole as well as cover up the raw edge and keep out debris. Well — no such item in the right size seems to exist. So I perused various bins in the hardware aisle and finally came up with a combination of pipe nipple and lock-nut.
The pipe nipple slips over the post, nesting between the post and the drilled edges in the door, and sticks up just enough to screw on the lock-nut.
In order to spare you five thousand words, here are pictures: (since I still don’t trust WordPress to put the pictures up in order, visually, I am numbering them)

1. steel shelving pipe sticking up through drilled hole

2. pipe nipple dropped over steel post

3. Pipe nipple pushed down between steel post and hole

4.finally, lock-nut screwed down over edge of hole
Careful thought and measuring of worktop height and cookware was vital. The height of the bottom shelf conflicted with the location of a crucial electrical outlet, so I cut a notch out of the back of that shelf.


I know, it’s like baby pictures. They all look the same except to the proud parent.
The light is a halogen work light, one of three I bought several years ago. There isn’t any electrical box over in that area so a hardwired fixture would have been a pain and expense, and this light is a plug-in. If I get feeling really swanky, I may spray paint the housing in copper or hammered steel…